The Comprehensive Guide to Hair Types & Curl Care
The Andre Walker Hair Typing System
The Andre Walker System is the industry standard for classifying hair texture based on natural curl pattern shapes:
Type 1: Straight
Strands lack curl pattern entirely. Natural scalp sebum flows down easily, making hair glossy but prone to oiliness and lack of volume.
Type 2: Wavy
Tends to lie flat at the root and form gentle S-waves. Subtypes: 2A (loose waves), 2B (medium waves), 2C (defined, coarser waves).
Type 3: Curly
Defined ringlets or spiral shapes with distinct spring. Subtypes: 3A (large curls), 3B (corkscrews), 3C (pencil-width curls).
Type 4: Coily
Dense, tight zig-zag or coiled patterns. Subtypes: 4A (tight coils), 4B (Z-pattern bends), 4C (tightest curls, high shrinkage).
Porosity vs. Curl Pattern
While your curl pattern determines how your hair looks, your hair porositydetermines how it behaves. Porosity refers to your hair cuticle's ability to absorb and retain moisture:
- Low Porosity: Cuticles are tightly shut. Water bounces off, but once moisture gets inside, it stays. Requires heat to open cuticles (e.g. steamers) and lightweight products.
- Medium Porosity: Cuticles are slightly raised, allowing moisture in easily and locking it in. Requires standard maintenance.
- High Porosity: Cuticles are raised or damaged (due to coloring or heat). Moisture enters immediately but evaporates just as fast. Requires rich sealing butter, heavy oils, and protein treatments.
The LOC and LCO Moisture Retention Methods
Because curly and coily hair shapes prevent scalp sebum from travelling down the hair shaft, strands dry out quickly. To lock in water, use these layering techniques:
The LOC Method
Liquid, Oil, Cream: Apply water or a water-based leave-in conditioner first (L), then apply a sealing oil like avocado or argan oil (O), and finish with a styling cream or butter to close the hair cuticle (C). Best for high porosity hair.
The LCO Method
Liquid, Cream, Oil: Apply water/leave-in first (L), follow with a styling cream to hydrate the core (C), and finish with 2-3 drops of oil to create an outer shield (O). Best for low porosity hair, as it prevents styling buildup.
General Curl Care Best Practices
- Use Sulfate-Free Cleansers: Sulfates (like SLS) are harsh detergents that strip away natural lipids, causing curly hair to frizz.
- Microfiber or Cotton Drying: Standard terry cloth towels have loops that hook onto curls, causing friction and frizz. Use a microfiber towel or a clean cotton T-shirt to squeeze out moisture instead.
- Sleep on Satin/Silk: Cotton pillowcases absorb moisture from your hair and cause friction as you toss and turn. Satin or silk prevents breakage and preserves curl shape.